Athens & Syros, Greece

Our journey next takes us what was once the centre of human civilization, Athens. Arriving late at night we have a pretty unnerving start, as both the accommodation host and our taxi driver warned us about the area we were in, the taxi driver going so far as to walk us to the door and wait in the car until we were safely inside – shoutout to that guy for being so nice, he also gave us loads of restaurant recommendations and they were all great! Alas, we step onto the balcony and in full sight is the lit-up Parthenon at the Acropolis, stunning and a real pinch-yourself moment. I tell you, it was a stroke of genius of the ancient Greeks to build it on such a high hill that two-thousand years later I might enjoy the view from my balcony, cheers guys!

By daylight we see begin to see what our host and the taxi driver were warning us about, the area is a bit sketchy, there is visible drug and alcohol abuse and more than a few unsavoury characters. It can be hard to swallow but this is the reality for many living in Athens, and an important window into the challenges facing this enormous metropolis, and all others like it. What blows me away is you walk five minutes from here and it’s a completely different world, one that is neatly presented and packaged up for tourists, the sudden shift is so stark it’s as if there were boundaries drawn on the roads. Now don’t get me wrong, I really loved Athens, for such a storied and historic city it still feels young at heart and stays true to itself. I read an article recently that talked about next must-see travel destinations in Greece, and the list included Athens, I initially thought this odd but reading on it explained how Athens had become a one-night stopover city for people enroute to the Greek Islands, and what a shame that is as Athens has so much to offer. We did our usual walking tour for a full run-down on the incredible history, the host of which was a practicing archaeologist which really enhanced the experience. I do love the confidence that Greeks have when declaring that the roots of any modern thing or idea can be traced back to their ancestors, and in their defence a hell of a lot does – our guide however was only half-Greek, so he gave us a surprisingly well-rounded understanding of the ancient city including how much of it was shaped by the Romans – blasphemer! A trip to the Acropolis is another must, and what I would give to have seen it in all its glory, though it must be said the cranes and scaffold around the Parthenon take quite a bit away from the experience. I’m also not sure what the end goal is as they seem to be actively rebuilding it, is it just one big endless construction project? In two-thousand years when I return after being cryogenically frozen will they then be rebuilding the rebuilt version?

After a day of hot sightseeing, it goes without saying that Greece has some of the best gastronomy on offer, and the combination of an ice-cold Alpha and rich salty Gyro is just unbeatable for lunch. For dinner we hit up a taverna in Monastiraki with a fantastic live band, warm service and simply amazing food – the real highlight though was the incredibly pissed guy in front of me shovelling in Greek salad with steel-eyed determination, perhaps trying to cleanse himself of his daily sins (on this day I think that was drinking fifteen beers). Athens is such a colourful experience and is a city I would genuinely love to return to.

And now we’re heading to Syros with the Woodward’s and Standish’s in tow! On the ferry we got chatting to this American guy who told us the story of his unbelievable near-death experience and subsequent lengthy recovery, he was a man who was genuinely lucky to be alive, and it was incredibly sobering for me. It made me realise how lucky I am to be in good health, but on top of that to be able to spend time travelling, exploring the world and seeing so many incredible things and meeting amazing people. On challenging days or when I’m being an ungrateful shit I remind myself of that thought-provoking conversation with that inspiring guy.  

I didn’t know what to expect from the Greek Island’s as I’d never been, and with over two-hundred inhabited islands there isn’t a lack of choice for places to go, but I can confidently say that based on my experience, Syros is the best! Seriously though, six nights disappeared far too quickly here. The main town, Ermoupoli is just beautiful, from it’s doll-house-like theatre to the picture-perfect swimming platforms and grandiose old mansions, it’s a pleasure to simply stroll around and take it all in. Kini Beach, where we stayed, is everything you want in a quieter beach getaway. There are two equally lovely beaches to choose from, relaxed restaurants by the beach and endless views of the landscape. It was very special to be able to spend this time with Hanz’ family, all together on the other side of the world, wrangling kids, discussing transport logistics, using coffee and ice-cream breaks as tactical defusions of rising tensions, but ultimately having a blast – it completely surreal and not something that is easy to pull off! Meeting, and getting to know Rob’s older cousin Gavin was an absolute highlight for me, I didn’t realise how much I missed talking about footy and cricket - thanks for feigning interest these past few months Hanz - and Gavin, I said I wasn’t confident that the Crows had it in them this year, and it’s a shame Freo didn’t fare any better! I loved the evenings we all spent with a cold beer looking out at the sunset, discussing the various boats cruising past and just chatting about life as we watched it slowly drift by. Gavin’s place has magic in the air, it is such a joy to share in the peace that he has created in that island paradise, that is so comfortable and yet so far from home. It was such a shame to leave, I could have stayed twelve nights, but I’m determined to be back one day Gav, and thanks again for having us!  

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Hannah's Thoughts:

At this point, we had been travelling for just over two months, just the two of us, which is kind of wild when you stop and think about it. Two months since we worked, or I raised my voice at a student. Two months since we’d seen our mates and family. Two months since we’d done the usual Sunday grocery shop (something I definitely don’t miss).

Greece was the 'family reunion' part of the trip, where we were meeting up with my family: my mum, dad, sister, her husband, and their two kids under four, a contrast to travelling just us two, to say the least. We arranged to meet Jess, Ben, and the kids in Monastiraki Square, a bustling place on a Friday night. The crowds were thick, but we spotted them from afar and all embraced with huge smiles, each of us repeating the same line, “how amazing that we made this work.” Later that night, Mum and Dad arrived. Just like with Jess and Ben, it was a joyful welcome filled with suffocating hugs and kisses. We spent three nights in Athens before heading to Syros. Honestly, it all felt a bit surreal. Jesse and I sat on the balcony, drinking a Mythos with my family, overlooking the Acropolis, sharing stories about our travels while they shared the trials and tribulations of flying for 25+ hours with two young kids. My hat goes off to them. And somehow, despite the distance and time, it also felt like no time had passed at all.

Then we were off on the fast ferry to Syros. Waiting for us there was my dad’s cousin Gavin - we still haven’t quite figured out what that makes him to me (first cousin once removed?). Either way, it had been fifteen years since I was last in Syros, and at Gavin’s place, which he fondly calls Villa Raucous. I’d been lucky enough to be invited twice before, and Syros has held a special place in my heart ever since. The first time I went was in 2006, and my family still loves to remind me of my fashion choices back then, a steady rotation of two monkey-themed t-shirts with very questionable slogans, Nike sandals, and brown 'short-longs', I stand by the sandals, they were comfy as hell. The t-shirts? Debatable. I’ll include a photo for reference.

After a slight mishap with the taxis, we finally arrived at Villa Raucous. I was keen to see how much had changed, whether the little slice of paradise I remembered had been overtaken by beach beds and tourists. Much to my surprise (and relief), it still had the exact same feel. The town of Kini looked just as I remembered it, and gazing up the hill, I spotted Gav’s house. Memories came flooding back, especially of the hill we’d walk up and down daily to get to the beach - a detail that certainly sticks with you. Jesse and I stayed just below Gav’s, at Syrou Lotus, where we were welcomed warmly by Panos and his partner. They were both so genuine and proud to show us what they had built over the last two decades. The space they’d created was beautiful, and we felt right at home from the moment we arrived. They welcomed us into their house gave us a tour and great recommendations for the island which we took them up on when visiting the quaint little town of Ermoupoli.

Our days in Syros were spent swimming in the pool, relaxing at the beach, eating gyros, drinking wine, playing cards, napping, hanging in the hammock, listening to chilled classics on CD, and running around after Will who had a new obsession with "fishing" using a net in the pool. We lazed, laughed, and rethought our life choices while walking up that infamous hill. Sunset each night was a highlight, with everyone gathering as the sky lit up and Gavin reliably proclaiming, “red sky at night, shepherd’s delight". The biggest decisions we had to make each day were whether to swim in the pool or trek down to the beach, a tough life. The water was that deep, clear blue of the Mediterranean, the kind you can never get enough of. Kini, although a bit busier with more beach beds and restaurants now, still felt accessible to locals and tight-ass travellers like us. Although one day we did get a beach bed and lounge out for hours which encouraged my dad in calling us DINKS (Double Income No Kids) due to the lack of child responsibilities we held. Of course, we helped out where we could, playing make-believe with Will, feeding and holding Ruby, and doing whatever it took to make her smile. It’s amazing how much kids grow in just two months.

Highlights from Syros included endless laughs over card games like Donkey and Monopoly Deal. After playing for ages with just the two of us, we eventually realised we'd been playing both completely wrong the entire time. We butchered the rules of Donkey and somehow managed to mess up Monopoly Deal too — but honestly, the confusion made it all even funnier. With all of us in hysterics when Gavin threw up his hands and said “just take all of my money!".

As a family, we decided to venture into the town of Ermoupoli, just a twenty minute bus ride from Kini. We spent the afternoon wandering through the streets, browsing shops, visiting old theatres, and hunting down places we’d taken photos of on past trips, all while keeping an eye out for the nearest gyros spot. Much to the disappointment of my sister and mum, we discovered that the shops followed a Spanish-style siesta schedule, closing at two PM and not reopening until six. On another visit to Ermoupoli, we decided to explore Ano Syros, a charming hilltop town we’d heard was worth the trek. We were told we could take a local bus to the top, so we spoke to the driver to confirm. Something must have been lost in translation, because after 30 minutes, we found ourselves right back where we started, and no closer to Ano Syros. Mum, Dad, Jesse, and I were in hysterics, while my sister and Ben sat there wondering where the hell we’d ended up. After an avoidable taxi ride, we finally made it to Ano Syros, and it was worth every bit of the confusion. The streets were everything you'd expect from a classic Greek island village, narrow cobbled lanes, vibrant bougainvillaea spilling over whitewashed walls, and even a donkey carrying stock to the market.

Six days in Syros flew by and I must admit it felt like we still didn’t get enough quality family time, however it truly was really special getting to spend these moments with my family and Jesse, this time we all shared together just adds to all of the special memories I have of Syros. On the last day we all hugged Gavin goodbye hoping maybe one day we will get back to Villa Raucous and that it won’t be in another fifteen years. Just as we were about to board the ferry I looked to Jess and said, “I don’t think we will ever get back here will we?” To which she replied “I don’t think so” I think both of us were holding back tears just at the thought of it. But how lucky are we to have had that experience three times as a family and now with our extended family. Pretty bloody lucky I say. Thanks, Gavin, for these special memories that you have shared and created with us, and I hope ypu’re enjoying having your peace and quiet back!

Antio Greece!